THE GOOD BUCK

When I got the long bolt and improvised a way to disassemble the clutch off the bike (in the workshop manual it say “do not attempt to disassemble the clutch off the bike”, so that was nerve racking) I realised it wasn’t the clutch inner that I’d broken, but the clutch pressure plate. *blubbing intensifies* So, £120 for clutch inner, £80 for new clutch bearing, £70 for a 6 ton press to separate then rejoin the inner and outer, and £140 for a complete clutch assembly (that I bought after panicking about the inner, and before committing to buying a press, then learning I needed a new bearing to do it) that I don’t need. Bought the £49 clutch pressure plate. Fitted the new clutch plates, pressure plate and spring and refitted it on the bike. While I had the clutch side engine casing off I fitted my new clutch cable at the same time. Then refitted the engine casing. I fitted the clutch cable to the handlebars and tried it. Nothing. The lever was solid. I took the engine casing back off, and took the clutch mechanism apart again. Same. Reread the book. Not doing anything wrong. The clutch mechanism has a triangular piece. That fits to the bottom piece. It is three identical sides, a ball bearing in a groove on each side. Identical. But, what it doesn’t say in the book, if you twist the triangle it pulls the cable through and puts it under pressure, so when you pull the clutch lever there is movement. If you don’t twist it, it is already at it full range of motion in the direction the cable pulls it. It took me about 4 strips and rebuilds to suss that out. So not intuitive. Then you have to adjust a spring loaded screw mechanism in the engine casing (through an inspection port) to get the correct pressure on the clutch. What I didn’t realise it you have to hold the mechanism in with your fingers while tightening or you get a false feel of pressure. Harley’s, man! Everything has to be basic and idiosyncratic. A perfect example is Top Dead Centre. Any Japanese bike, you remove a cover (and spark plugs, obvs) fit a socket to a nut and turn the engine over until a line on the flywheel aligns with one on the inner casing. Harley? Jack the back end up, rotate the back wheel in 5th gear to turn the engine until the straw you’ve placed in the spark plug hole raises fully. So, everything was back together. New clutch plates, pressure plate, and clutch cable fitted and working. I really thought all of the above was going to be a doddle, so I’d confidently booked it in for it’s MOT again. It was a world of unnecessary pain but I got it done in time. I thought I’d best take it for a spin around the block to test everything out. I got about a hundred […]

I was saying in my last blog it had been months of the Sportster project looking like it would be forever before I could get it on the road, if at all, then suddenly it was a sprint to the finish with me taking it for it’s MOT today. *sigh* On Friday I had what felt like acid reflux, by Saturday it had moved to an irritating cough and feeling crap. I did a test and yup, it’s covid. Super. I was OK with it if it was just going to be a bit of a cough. I went to bed and then it really kicked in. Solid headache the painkillers just wouldn’t touch, lasted until this morning, sweating then shaking so bad my whole body was going into muscle spasms, my bones aching,etc etc. All the good things. I forced myself to crack on with my bike jobs on Sunday. I refitted the ignition barrel, replaced the cover on the ignition timing module, glued the (temporary) indicators into place, (just to pass the MOT, I’m replacing them and doing a proper job fitting the new ones) and rigged a fix for the too long outer cable on my throttle cable. Just had to replace the clutch plates. I stripped the side down and used the “simple, homemade clutch compressor tool”. Either the pipe was the wrong size (I ordered the size it said on the video) or my clutch is slightly larger. The bloody ring wouldn’t fit. Then the bar that goes across the ring bent under load. I spent ages trying to drill through a really tough bit of steel but I think I blunted my drill bits. In the end, in desperation, I went back into my shed and tried this ring with a bridge and screw handle. It’s the proper clutch compression tool! D’oh! I must have bought it then forgot. It had been hours of pushing through feeling shite and forcing myself to carry on, and I wasn’t thinking straight with it. Anyway, whatever the excuse, I didn’t take time out to google how to properly use the tool. I think I didn’t have it torqued down enough. In trying to get the retaining snap ring out I used too much force (because it wasn’t properly untensioned) and I broke a piece of the clutch basket off. I could have cried. Today, with a clearer head I’ve gone back in, and sorted a work around. The piece that broke off released the central bolt thing, so I had nothing against which to tighten the compressor. I’ve taken the clutch and primary off completely and ordered a long bolt. I should be able to feed it through the compressor tool and the whole clutch basket. Tighten up and remove the other retaining clip and it’s good to go. I’ve had to order bits from abroad so I’m probably going to be waiting for a few weeks. I’ll take the time to properly fit the new indicators […]

My last blog started with me in despair over #ProjectTractor. I’d rebuilt the engine and was failing to get it running. One job in a seemingly endless list, but a biggie. Then, as I was blogging, I realised the new coil for the ignition module has the spark plug leads connecting from the opposite terminals to the cylinders. Right terminal is now front cylinder. I was wildly optimistic that would solve that particular problem. The following morning I cut a new spark plug lead to reach to the front cylinder and tried again. I had a bunch of false starts and mistakes. I left it in gear, then I realised I’d only connected one spark plug cap, I left the inspection cover off when I started it, I forgot and let the loose ignition switch short out on the engine. Stupid, stupid things. Anyway, the first morning I got it running on Easy Start (and one cylinder, I later found out) and I was ecstatic. The next morning I put the tank back on and tried starting it with just the carb. It ran fine. Since then I’ve been running it for 30 seconds at a time in bursts, around work, to start the running in process. Now I’m going a bit longer each time. I’ve ordered a clutch upgrade kit, a clutch cable, a new gasket (that one is leaking) and more oil. That should all be arriving tomorrow. While I was at it I’ve ordered some better indicators, a 10mm drill bit (to drill out the rear mudguard a tad for the indicators) a low resistance torque wrench (one that is accurate from 5- 25nm, my main one is really only good over 20 nm) and some better locktite. I’ll keep running the engine in for longer periods, then if everything arrives as it’s supposed to, over the weekend I’ll fit my new clutch, cable, and gasket, and torque it down accurately. Pop my horn back on and run a wire to a good ground. Take the back wheel off, take off the rear indicators, drill the mudguard and refit the indicators (or the new ones if they arrive) properly, and pull the excess wire through so it’s all neat under the mudguard. Then just refit the wheel, tighten down all the nuts and bolts, refit the seat and adjust the headlight aim. That’s it. Job done. The point is, at the start of my last blog post I was struggling to get over one more hurdle. Now it seems the work is as good as done. It was a never never project, now it’s in for an MOT on Monday! With a bit of luck my next post I will be ready to ride it to work. It’s kind of crazy. I’m still waiting for the other shoe to drop. But if I’m riding to work next week… Wow.

I worked all weekend to finish the Sportster build, but it’s not working. I made a few mistakes. I forgot to put in oil seals so had to take the barrels and heads off again. For some reason the one of the throttle cables doesn’t quite fit. It’s the return cable so just the pull cable should be sufficient for starting it up. Then I spent hours trying to set up the simplest thing with the new ignition device. The instructions say front cylinder, TDC, compression stroke, then just rotate the unit slightly until the light goes out. At the exact point the light goes out, screw the unit into place. Easy. I spent hours. It’s not made any easier by Harley’s stone age attitude. To turn the engine over you have to put the bike into gear, take the pistons out, jack up the arse end, and rotate the wheel by hand. Anyway, I removed the inspection cover and turned it over, but the ignition unit just wouldn’t light up. I moved it as far as it would go, wriggled it, and pulled it out a bit. Then the light came on but it was shorting. I was devastated. An electrical problem on a brand new unit. After resetting the timing mark 3 times, and the unit, I still couldn’t get it to light up. I came in (to get wifi reception for my ‘phone) and googled loads of pages. One of the threads mentioned that it might be TDC on the exhaust stroke. I went back and tried again. I got lights and set it in a matter of minutes. Dammit! Anyway, it’s fully rebuilt, it turns over, it’s got spark. That’s not nothing. But it won’t fire. Even spraying Easy Start directly into the engine. Actually, that was yesterday. I didn’t take a picture today, but the exhausts are back on, tank and seat. It looks like a bike. The problem is I don’t understand where to go from here. It has a brand new Ultima ignition unit so that should be my ignition timing sorted. The valve timing is Harley primitive. There are a bunch of cogs. If you line them up, dot to line, your valve timing is set. So it’s not that. I sprayed Easy Start into the barrels, so it’s not fuel. It’s just back firing and firing out of the carb. Which is what it was doing before I stripped it. I’ve just been looking. There are a bunch of simple things to check out. The HT leads from the coil are push on. They could be loose. They are the original leads, they could be shot. I got fresh leads in the ignition kit. I could try them instead. I’ll make sure the battery is 100% charged. I’ll double, triple check the wiring is the right lead to the right terminal on the coil. As the ideas are occurring to me I’m checking out the videos and cross referencing them against […]

I sent my barrels away to be sorted 10 weeks ago. They said it would be about 6 weeks. “About” doing a lot of heavy lifting there. I’ve sent a couple of emails, the latest today, to see how it was getting along, and I finally got a ‘phone call tonight saying the job is done, but the paint has got wrecked by paint and oil. He said he can chemically strip them (£20 for the pair) then send them tomorrow. Probably for the best it came off now. If I’d have rebuilt the engine and the paint had all come off I would have been miffed. He’s told me the right paint to use this time (ordered it of eBay, £38 for one spray can, with P&P!) and told me how to do it. Apparently once you’ve sprayed it you have to bake it in the oven to make it set. Oh. Did not know that. Today, being my day off, I did a few little jobs. I put the tappets back in, set the switches on the ignition module, took the pistons off and charged the battery. Little jobs that would have to be done at some point but I thought I might as well do them now as I’m all out of proper jobs. I can’t really do anything else until I get the barrels. Which is why I was chafing at the delay. Again, it’s probably turned out for the best. It’s taken me until the end of last week to get all my jobs done. If I’d have had the barrels I would have been rushing. That rarely adds to the quality of a job. I had one moment of victory during the week. Being the genius wot I is, I took pictures as I was stripping the bike. When I rebuilt the bottom end I had a random wire left hanging. I went through my photos and there was a picture of me holding the wire. Not attached to it’s destination location, just holding it. Absolutely useless picture. It’s been a low level worry for a week or two. When I’d finished the bottom end, fitted a new gasket, and filled the engine with oil I got to worrying it fitted beneath the casing. I’d been holding out, hoping it would make sense when I refitted the barrels. Then I had a genius idea. I looked up where the green wire connects on the wiring diagram, -oil pressure sensor- , then looked for it’s location in the book, 5 minutes later it was on, and all of my wiring is done! These are all baby steps towards getting my head around electrics. Now I’m getting proper anxious/ nervous/ excited. By this time next week the Harley *should* be running. If it is *OMG, OMG, OMG!* If it’s not, *despair*. Deep breaths. In other news, the Warrington Half. After I did that hard 20 miles and shuffle the next day, then did a test half […]