I had 3 electrical issues with the Harley project. The horn didn’t work, I had no indicators, and the brake light seems to be stuck on. I’ve got to set up the new ignition unit, but that’s just a matter of screwing it in to place when I’ve put the barrels back on and can judge top dead centre. Anyway, the horn was dead. I read through the trouble shooting in the Clymer manual. It is brilliant manual. A step by step guide. I tested the circuit from the switch to the horn, I had connectivity. I wired the horn up to the battery, the horn worked. So it had to be the earth wire. I rigged a wire to a solid earth point on the frame and I have a horn! It doesn’t sound like much (the achievement, the horn sounds fine) but it’s my first ever win with electrical diagnosis, so I was thrilled.
The indicators were a puzzle. The bike didn’t have any so I bought a set then tried fitting them. There was only one wire to each indicator on the bike. I attached it and fitted them but couldn’t find an earth. It turns out they are self grounding, but they still didn’t light so no power was getting to them. There are cut wires in the headlight that correspond to the power lines to the indicators in the wiring diagram. Rather than try to rewire the bike I looked it up and found a flasher module kit. It was a bit scary to fit as I had to cut off a connector. The wires leading to it were so short I would have been been in a right state if the new kit hadn’t worked. I checked all the wires in the wiring diagram to get them to correspond to the kit wires and …
So, so happy. Two electrical wins! Now all I have to do is look at the brake light units. If there is any trouble with them they are only a fiver (each) to replace. Then I’m basically done with electrics and all I have to do is stick the barrels back on. I could be riding it to work in a fortnight! Probably not. I find it hard to imagine that it will be all done and I can just ride it.
(Update: I had an unexpected day off today, – Wednesday-, I’ve been getting every shift for which I make myself available for the last few months. I did an 8.30m/m 8 miles run then cracked on with the final electrical problem, the brake light being permanently on. I’d convinced myself it was the hard thing, the pressure operated rear brake switch. I unplugged one lead and it was still on. Then I read up on it. It said the most common thing is the front brake switch. Which makes sense, because when I tracked down the rear switch I hadn’t touched it, or anything near it. I undid two screws, found the push button that activates the brake light, aligned it properly and voila! Brake lights! My electrics are MOT ready! So chuffed. I’ve just watched the setting up video for the new ignition module I’ve already fitted. It is a doddle. I’ve just been out to the shed. I have power to the ignition unit, so it’s properly wired in. When I’ve put the barrels back on it’s just a matter of TDC the front barrel, click some buttons to on or off, then move the ignition module until the light goes off. Screw it tight and BRUMMMM! Now I’m starting to think it will soon be back on the road. )
Oh, another thing, I was all about doing this job on the cheap when I started. Apart from upgrading the barrels I pretty much have. (The tyres and electrical components were necessary.) I spray painted the frame, engine, wheels, headlight and pushrod tubes. I’ve polished the engine cases. But I was going to be putting a rusty exhaust back on. When rust has eaten through chrome it looks nasty, and the pipes are big and noticeable. I started rabbit-holing about exhausts and it seems although 2 into 2 exhausts look the business they are going to lose you low down power. A serious exhaust system is 2 into 1. Then I heard this. All pretext aside, it was the sound that sold it to me. Listen to it! It ‘PUTT PUTT PUTT’s like a Harley on tickover but rev it and it sounds like an old Brit. It’s gorgeous.
I’m getting a slightly different one.
The only difference is the endcan (silencer) is level instead of pointing up and the pipes are bent slightly different to allow for middle footpegs as opposed to forward ones. It’s hard to see on those pictures but it’s a handmade, stainless steel exhaust with lots of sections welded together for the bends. Instead of looking Harley bling chrome it looks a bit industrial. It will free up a lot of power and make the bike run better. The real thing is the sound though.
It’s coming from Thailand so it’s comparatively cheap as chips.
The other thing is my running. I’ve got my race pack through for next Sunday’s Warrington half marathon. My training has been so abysmal lately that I shouldn’t really have any fitness left. I went out to test my pace today. I needed to know what I could reasonably be expected to maintain. It’s no good setting off fast if you burn out. Conversely you don’t want to set off too slow and have loads left in the tank at the end of the race. I aimed for 7.30m/m. I was holding low 7.20s quite comfortably (hard and painful but manageable) for a bunch of miles but by the end I was hanging on to 7.30 by my fingernails. I did it. 1.37:34. Which is 7.27 m/m pace. That’s 7 minutes 30 odd slower than my best, but given the utter lack of training, that’s pretty good. I’m going to do Frankfurt marathon as a fun run. 8.00- 8.30 pace, just so long as I finish.
As soon as the Harley is done I can put all my spare time into training.
Right, another busy week ahead at work, time for sleep.
Later
Buck.