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My last blog started with me in despair over #ProjectTractor. I’d rebuilt the engine and was failing to get it running. One job in a seemingly endless list, but a biggie. Then, as I was blogging, I realised the new coil for the ignition module has the spark plug leads connecting from the opposite terminals to the cylinders. Right terminal is now front cylinder. I was wildly optimistic that would solve that particular problem. The following morning I cut a new spark plug lead to reach to the front cylinder and tried again.

I had a bunch of false starts and mistakes. I left it in gear, then I realised I’d only connected one spark plug cap, I left the inspection cover off when I started it, I forgot and let the loose ignition switch short out on the engine. Stupid, stupid things. Anyway, the first morning I got it running on Easy Start (and one cylinder, I later found out) and I was ecstatic. The next morning I put the tank back on and tried starting it with just the carb. It ran fine. Since then I’ve been running it for 30 seconds at a time in bursts, around work, to start the running in process. Now I’m going a bit longer each time.

I’ve ordered a clutch upgrade kit, a clutch cable, a new gasket (that one is leaking) and more oil. That should all be arriving tomorrow. While I was at it I’ve ordered some better indicators, a 10mm drill bit (to drill out the rear mudguard a tad for the indicators) a low resistance torque wrench (one that is accurate from 5- 25nm, my main one is really only good over 20 nm) and some better locktite.

I worked all weekend to finish the Sportster build, but it’s not working.

I made a few mistakes. I forgot to put in oil seals so had to take the barrels and heads off again. For some reason the one of the throttle cables doesn’t quite fit. It’s the return cable so just the pull cable should be sufficient for starting it up. Then I spent hours trying to set up the simplest thing with the new ignition device. The instructions say front cylinder, TDC, compression stroke, then just rotate the unit slightly until the light goes out. At the exact point the light goes out, screw the unit into place. Easy.

I spent hours. It’s not made any easier by Harley’s stone age attitude. To turn the engine over you have to put the bike into gear, take the pistons out, jack up the arse end, and rotate the wheel by hand.

I sent my barrels away to be sorted 10 weeks ago. They said it would be about 6 weeks. “About” doing a lot of heavy lifting there. I’ve sent a couple of emails, the latest today, to see how it was getting along, and I finally got a ‘phone call tonight saying the job is done, but the paint has got wrecked by paint and oil. He said he can chemically strip them (£20 for the pair) then send them tomorrow. Probably for the best it came off now. If I’d have rebuilt the engine and the paint had all come off I would have been miffed. He’s told me the right paint to use this time (ordered it of eBay, £38 for one spray can, with P&P!) and told me how to do it. Apparently once you’ve sprayed it you have to bake it in the oven to make it set. Oh. Did not know that.

Today, being my day off, I did a few little jobs. I put the tappets back in, set the switches on the ignition module, took the pistons off and charged the battery. Little jobs that would have to be done at some point but I thought I might as well do them now as I’m all out of proper jobs. I can’t really do anything else until I get the barrels. Which is why I was chafing at the delay. Again, it’s probably turned out for the best. It’s taken me until the end of last week to get all my jobs done. If I’d have had the barrels I would have been rushing. That rarely adds to the quality of a job. I had one moment of victory during the week. Being the genius wot I is, I took pictures as I was stripping the bike. When I rebuilt the bottom end I had a random wire left hanging. I went through my photos and there was a picture of me holding the wire. Not attached to it’s destination location, just holding it. Absolutely useless picture. It’s been a low level worry for a week or two. When I’d finished the bottom end, fitted a new gasket, and filled the engine with oil I got to worrying it fitted beneath the casing. I’d been holding out, hoping it would make sense when I refitted the barrels. Then I had a genius idea. I looked up where the green wire connects on the wiring diagram, -oil pressure sensor- , then looked for it’s location in the book, 5 minutes later it was on, and all of my wiring is done! These are all baby steps towards getting my head around electrics.

Now I’m getting proper anxious/ nervous/ excited. By this time next week the Harley *should* be running. If it is *OMG, OMG, OMG!* If it’s not, *despair*. Deep breaths.

I had 3 electrical issues with the Harley project. The horn didn’t work, I had no indicators, and the brake light seems to be stuck on. I’ve got to set up the new ignition unit, but that’s just a matter of screwing it in to place when I’ve put the barrels back on and can judge top dead centre. Anyway, the horn was dead. I read through the trouble shooting in the Clymer manual. It is brilliant manual. A step by step guide. I tested the circuit from the switch to the horn, I had connectivity. I wired the horn up to the battery, the horn worked. So it had to be the earth wire. I rigged a wire to a solid earth point on the frame and I have a horn! It doesn’t sound like much (the achievement, the horn sounds fine) but it’s my first ever win with electrical diagnosis, so I was thrilled.

The indicators were a puzzle. The bike didn’t have any so I bought a set then tried fitting them. There was only one wire to each indicator on the bike. I attached it and fitted them but couldn’t find an earth. It turns out they are self grounding, but they still didn’t light so no power was getting to them. There are cut wires in the headlight that correspond to the power lines to the indicators in the wiring diagram. Rather than try to rewire the bike I looked it up and found a flasher module kit. It was a bit scary to fit as I had to cut off a connector. The wires leading to it were so short I would have been been in a right state if the new kit hadn’t worked. I checked all the wires in the wiring diagram to get them to correspond to the kit wires and …

So, so happy. Two electrical wins! Now all I have to do is look at the brake light units. If there is any trouble with them they are only a fiver (each) to replace. Then I’m basically done with electrics and all I have to do is stick the barrels back on. I could be riding it to work in a fortnight! Probably not. I find it hard to imagine that it will be all done and I can just ride it.

I’ve had a good 24 hours.

I was stressing for a few days as I’d lost all power on the Harley. It had most of the electrics working before I stripped it. When I was putting it back together I had a bit of a mix up with the battery cables. The one that comes from the left of the battery actually fits to the right of it. And they are both black cables with nothing to distinguish positive from negative. I had a moment and fitted the cables the wrong way around then had nothing when I tried hotwiring the ignition again. I was stressed out thinking I’d blown all the fuses. I did some research, it doesn’t have fuses, it has breaker relays. I’ve no idea about that, I’ve never come across them before. I reread my electrics for idiots book and was going to try and track down how far the power went. I fitted a new ignition last night and in doing so noticed a third wire. It’s been apart for weeks, I’d forgotten.

I HAVE ELECTRICS!